The Ultimate Guide to La Fortuna with a Toddler: A Full Itinerary

3 days ago
5 min read

Many parents ask us if the "Adventure Capital" of Costa Rica is too rugged for a little one. Our answer? Not at all. Between the volcano views and the sloth-spotting, it is a giant outdoor playground. If you are planning your own family getaway, here is our deep dive into navigating La Fortuna based on our recent 12-day trek through this beautiful country.

A person stands on rocks by a waterfall in a lush, green forest. The La Fortuna Waterfall splashes into a turquoise pool, creating a serene scene.

Getting There: The Road to the Volcano

After picking up our Toyota RAV4 from Enterprise (a must-have for the hilly terrain), we stayed one night at the Fairfield by Marriott in Alajuela to rest up before the drive to the mountains.

The drive from the San Jose area to La Fortuna takes about 2.5 to 3 hours. We broke up the trip with a stop at Alkafe for an amazing breakfast. The drive is pretty slow with lots of turns, but absolutely gorgeous.

A sloth hangs leisurely from tree branches amidst lush green leaves, creating a serene and natural jungle atmosphere.

Our Basecamp: Airbnb in San Carlos

For this leg of the trip, we booked a 3-night stay at an Airbnb in the San Carlos region. This Airbnb was epic with a pool, an amazing view of the volcano, and a resident sloth named Coco. This was probably our favorite place we stayed on this trip. When traveling with a toddler, we like to book Airbnbs over hotels for trips like this for three reasons:

The Kitchen: Being able to prep breakfast at 8:00 AM before heading out is a lifesaver.
The Space: Having separate rooms means Johnny and I can actually have a conversation and hang out after our toddler goes to bed.
Laundry: Costa Rica is humid; you will want to wash those muddy trail clothes! We also like to pack light and re-wear clothes as we go. Every place you stay doesn't need to have it if you plan accordingly!

Mother and child walk hand in hand on a forest path, surrounded by lush green trees and moss. The mother carries a backpack.

Day 1: Mistico Hanging Bridges & Hot Springs

We kicked off our first full day in La Fortuna at 9:00 AM at the Mistico Hanging Bridges. This is about a 30-minute drive from the main town center.

Mistico with a Toddler

The walk takes about 2 to 3 hours. While the main paths are well-maintained, strollers aren't practical on the bridges themselves. Once our toddler gets tired, we use a hiking carrier, which gives her a "bird’s eye view" of the canopy. After our hike, we had a snack out by the playground and saw our first Coati!

Afternoon Soak at Baldi

After a midday nap back at the Airbnb, we headed to Baldi Hot Springs around 2:30 PM. If you are looking for the most kid-friendly hot springs in La Fortuna, this is it. They have a massive children's area with slides and shallow pools. We spent the entire afternoon hopping between the different temperatures while our toddler splashed around. This was one of our best highlights of the whole trip!

Lush green rainforest with a waterfall cascading down a cliff, surrounded by dense foliage. Cloudy sky adds a serene, tranquil mood.

Day 2: Waterfalls and Wildlife

This was our "big" activity day. We learned early on that in Costa Rica, the early bird gets the sloth.

La Fortuna Waterfall

We arrived at the La Fortuna Waterfall around 7:00 AM and had a quick breakfast at Vita Café right next door. This is one of the most iconic spots in the country, but be warned: it involves over 500 steps down to the base of the falls.

The Descent: Our toddler handled the first 100 steps like a champ, but the climb back up is where the real work happens.
The Reward: The pool at the bottom is stunning. While the water is a bit chilly for a toddler to swim in for long, the atmosphere and the roar of the falls are mesmerizing. We even saw fish in the water!

Red and blue frog perched on a green leaf in a dark, lush environment. The vibrant colors contrast with the deep green foliage.

Sloth's Night Tour

At 5:30 PM, we joined a guided night tour. There is something incredibly magical about walking through the rainforest with flashlights. We saw a few sloths, several colorful frogs, and other wildlife. The tour lasted about 2 hours, which was just the right length for a three-year-old’s attention span. Although at one point our toddler lost her shoe while she was in the hiking backpack, we had to backtrack to find it. Luckily, it didn't fall off while we were on a bridge!

Avocado toast with poached eggs topped with herbs, served on a wooden tray. Side cups of salsa and jalapeños. Bright and fresh setting.

Where to Eat: Toddler-Approved Spots

Eating out with a toddler can be a gamble, but La Fortuna has some fantastic, casual options:

Mediterraneo Pizza: Located near the town center, this was our go-to for an easy dinner. The pizza is excellent, and the family-friendly vibe is very relaxed with a whole kids' play area.

Restaurante Fortuneño #2: We went here for dinner after the Hot Springs, and it was very kid-friendly with a large kids' play area.
Soda & Restaurante Rodríguez: For a more authentic "Tico" experience, we visited this local soda for Casado (protein, rice, beans, and salad), which is healthy and filling. This restaurant we went to for lunch and had a super unique experience with a very friendly cat and an option to paint your own piece of wood to hang.

The Open Kitchen: We went here for lunch one day to have some Acai Bowls and Avocado toast that did not disappoint!
Tayakiry Café: Most mornings, we would opt for a breakfast on the go. We went a few mornings to grab some smoothies and coffee to go.

A bowl of chia seeds, coconut, granola, banana, mango, and strawberry slices. The ingredients are vibrant and arranged neatly.

Packing Essentials for the Rainforest

If you are following our itinerary, here is what you need in your day bag:

Sturdy Footwear: Do not rely on sandals for the hanging bridges or the waterfall stairs. Definitely bring reliable hiking boots for everyone.
Bug Spray: The mosquitoes are no joke, especially during the Sloth Night Tour. We brought bug spray, bug wipes, and even bug repellent stickers for our toddler!
Raincoat: Even in the dry season, La Fortuna is called the "rainforest" for a reason. We certainly had the mentality that getting wet was part of the experience. Being prepared and getting rained did not hurt the experience one bit.
Snacks: We found that keeping a stash of snacks for the 31-minute drives between attractions kept the meltdowns at bay.

Lush green forest with a cascading waterfall into a turquoise pool. A wooden railing leads down a path, creating a serene, natural scene.

Moving On: The Journey to Monteverde

On our final morning, we checked out of our San Carlos Airbnb. Our next stop was a visit to Volcán Tenorio National Park for a hike to see the Rio Celeste waterfall.

The drive from the waterfall area to our next destination, Monteverde, took about 2 hours and 15 minutes. It’s a winding road with incredible views, but if your toddler is prone to motion sickness, definitely take it slow!

Final Thoughts on La Fortuna with a Toddler

La Fortuna was the perfect mix of structured activity and natural beauty. By sticking to a schedule that allowed for 2:00 PM naps and early dinners, we were able to see the best of the region without burning out.

Whether you are crossing the Mistico bridges or soaking in the volcanic springs, Costa Rica proves that adventure doesn't have to stop just because you have a "plus one" in a car seat.